West Highland Way - Day 6
We woke up this morning at the Kings House Hotel feeling a bit fuzzy-headed after the hi-jinks last night. We went down for a great breakfast including porridge, which was presided over by a (female) Roger Moore lookie-likie. Unfortunately none of us were brazen enough to take a photo!
Back upstairs I checked on the rash on my legs, which was clearing up nicely with the hydrocortisone cream. It looked like it was going to be another hot day, so to be on the safe side I covered my legs in factor 45, which was so thick I looked like I was ready to swim the Channel.


After packing our bags and settling our bill we headed outside to be greeted with the glorious sight of Buachaille Etive Mór enshrouded in cloud.



After taking a lot of photos and warming up, we set off back along the West Highland Way. For the first kilometre you walk on a minor road running parallel with the main road, with great views across to Buachaille Etive Mór.


The path then turns up the way and becomes a rough track following the base of Beinn a’ Chrulaiste, climbing away from the main road.



The peak of Buachaille Etive Mór just about revealed itself from the low cloud, which was giving the whole area an almost mystical feel.

There were a few Highland cows close to the path, including some calves.


Looking back we could just see the Kings House Hotel through the hazy clouds, showing us how far we’d come.

The path drops down to the edge of the road for another kilometre, then turns away to the north as it approaches the bottom of the infamous Devil’s Staircase. We stopped for a break here before beginning the climb.

The Devil’s Staircase zig-zags its way up a steep slope as the path passes between Stob Mhic Mhartuin and Beinn Bheag and is a hard slog so early in the day.

Stopping for a rest half way up we looked back down to where we had come from, before carrying on for the final push.



At the top of the Devil’s Staircase the path flattens out, and we stopped here for another break, looking back towards Buachaille Etive Mór as it appeared and disappeared in the clouds.


Over the other side of the crest the path twists its way down over the Allt a’ Choire Odhair-bhig and around Sron a’ Choire Odhair-bhig.



At the end of Sron a’ Choire Odhair-bhig we stopped for our packed lunch from the Kings House Hotel.

Beyond Sron a’ Choire Odhair-bhig the path starts to descend towards a pumping station for the old aluminium works at Kinlochleven.



At the pumping station the West Highland Way joins the very steep and rough service road which runs all the way down to Kinlochleven.

As you get closer to Kinlochleven every telegraph pole you pass has signs on it for the village’s various facilities. We spotted an ancient sign for The Antler Bar, somewhere we would be visiting later on.

Mark by this point was desperate for the toilet, so he was marching on with a funny gait in search of a massive pristine convenience - brilliant gold taps, virginal white marble, a seat carved from ebony, a cistern full of Chanel No. 5, and a flunky handing him pieces of raw silk toilet roll. Given the distance of the nearest toilet it was a happy coincidence that he passed this sign.

After walking through the village we got to the Macdonald Hotel where we were staying in their All Seasons cabins. After showering and changing we had a great meal in the hotel’s bar. There was a rather over-efficient lady clearing plates from the tables, who came and took Gail and Gregor’s plates while me and Mark were still eating. After I had finished she came back to take mine, and stood at the end of the table waiting for Mark to finish, saying “Don’t worry, there’s no rush”!
The view down Loch Leven from outside the Macdonald Hotel was fantastic, the sun starting to go down as we headed into the centre of the village.

We went for a swift ale in the Tailrace Inn, but were put off by the band warming up with extended 80s guitar solos, so soon moved on to the treat that is The Antler Bar.


We settled in for a few pints in this fantastic little pub, and with the beer flowing, so was the comedy. No-one re-enacted Euan’s comedy moment with the dartboard lightswitch, but Gregor did spot the amusing instructions on the fantastically-named Magnum hand dryer.


As we left The Antler Bar the sky looked amazing with Mam na Guallain silhouetted against it.

We walked back through the village to the Macdonald Hotel.

We had a few more ales while playing pool.

Then headed out to the cabins.


Where there was just time before bed for some more drunken Tartan Mafia publicity photos.


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